Sunday, August 4, 2013

Final 2013 Workshops - Sydney & Gold Coast


Just a couple of date claimers for my final workshops for 2013…


Workshop Title:  `The Training Toolkit’
Date: Saturday September 7th
Venue: Animal Referral Hospital – Homebush, Sydney.
Time: 9:00am to 1:30pm
Presentations:

  • Session 1: The Training Toolkit
  • Session 2: Nutritional Influences on Parrot Behaviour (Dr Stacey Gelis)
  • Session 3: What’s in it for me? – Motivating parrots for training success
  • Session 4: Training Troubleshooting – Tips for successful training and behaviour change management

Cost: $95
Registration Information: Please contact seminar@arhvets.com or phone 02 9758 8880 (Registrations close August 31st)

Workshop Title: `Annual Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary Companion Parrot Workshop Day’
Date: Saturday September 28th
Venue: Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary – Gold Coast
Time: 9:00am to 4:00pm
Presentations:

  • 21st Century Approach to Companion Parrot Keeping
  • Environmental Enrichment
  • Diet Management
  • Practical Handling & Body Language Interpretation
  • Behind The Scenes – Free Flight Bird Show
  • Behaviour Management
  • Q&A

Cost: $135 ($95 for second household member)



`Hey - Get some education!!!'

Friday, July 5, 2013

The 80/20 Rule



In my last post I talked about some simple options for foraging foods that can encourage parrots to spend more time feeding in functionally relevant ways that match how these little guys are biologically built to behave. A few years ago I published an article in Australian Birdkeeper Magazine that discussed the disparity between variability vs predictability in a parrots daily experience set in captive environments compared to natural environments. It’s what I call the `80/20 rule’. No hard and fast science here – just an anecdotal generalization of activity budget and what a parrot is likely to experience on any given day either in the wild or as a pet in someone’s home that is simple enough for everyone to get the picture that life in the wild is a heck of a lot more variable than life in the living room.  

The simple equation suggests that a parrot in the wild is likely to have a high degree of variability (that’s the 80%) and low degree of predictability (that’s the 20%) in its daily experience set. Conversely, the captive parrot is likely to experience a low degree of variability (20%) and high degree of predictability (80%) in its daily experience set. This sets up the challenge to address the disparity and bridge the gap in that 80/20 ratio between predictability versus variability. It’s the key to long-term behavioural success in our birds. A simple way to start is to categorise all of the experiences your parrot has in a day – eg, feeding, bathing, social interaction, exploration, out of cage, in cage, on playstand etc. Think of alternative ways that each of those experiences can be presented and how you can reduce their predictability on a daily or even weekly schedule. In the next post I will illustrate one super simple way that you can make change the norm. Change and Choice – two great words to keep in mind when setting the environment up for your parrot to succeed and doing something proactive about that 80/20 rule.

Five Fab Foraging Foods



After nearly 20 years of daily parrot feeding I seriously still get a buzz from seeing my birds getting stuck into the fresh food that I prepare for them daily. Cleaning and re-perching, yep - that's a chore, feeding - definitely not. I have written about the value of foraging foods in a number of past blog posts but I wanted to revisit the idea with `5 Fab Foraging Foods’ – stuff that anyone can grab from their local produce and supermarket that get parrots working for food in ways that better replicates the functional foraging behaviours we observe from them in the wild. 


  1. Fresh Figs – Expensive little fellas but packed with gooey goodness. These represent everything that is good about a true forage food – inedible external layer hiding seed filled fleshy delight with the right texture to appeal to most species. A nice idea is to use a knife to `score’ the outside and just feed whole to let them do the rest of the demolition job on it. 
  2. Sugar Snap Peas – Another pricey piece of produce but again, a great replicator of nature’s parrot perfect packaging that demands some work and perseverance to get beyond the fibrous pod and into the peas inside. 
  3. Passionfruit – As with fresh figs, the best way to feed these to motivate work is to score the fruit casing with a knife and let them do the rest. I actually find that my birds don’t seem to eat much of the passionfruit at all. But the sight of an obliterated mess of purple and gold tells me that they whilst there was probably no nutritional value to be gained they had plenty of fun doing `stuff’ other than making noise and pulling out feathers.
  4. Chillies – Parrots lack the capsaicin receptors that result in us humans experiencing the sensation of `heat’ when eating peppers. Packed full of vitamins they can be a great addition to the daily diet. In all the years I have been feeding parrots I have seen every variation on the theme when it comes to consuming foods like chillies. Some eat the flesh, some only eat the seeds, some show little interest. Worth persevering and trying different colours as well to pique their interest. 
  5. Seed Sticks – Yep, not kidding. I’ll probably be lambasted by all the Parrot Police out there who want to rave about ridiculous restrictions on feeding anything not derived from ritually blessed organically certified soils of the hippy hinterland or picked from trees facing the mystic light shards of the northern summer solstice. But seriously, these humble little original bird treats are cheap, convenient, novel fun – especially for parrots that rarely get exposed to seed in their regular diet. In most cases very little is actually consumed and they really can be a highly effective redirector for destructive behaviour – particularly useful to have handy when you need a little quiet `busy’ time from your parrot. Just be sensible with the stick selection and the way you use them; choose the varieties with minimal sunflower seed, avoid the wire stick versions and only use the type shown in the pic above (Trill and Bird Munchies are best), only provide with a purpose (not as a substitute for the more nutritionally beneficial items of their daily food intake) and present for short windows of opportunity to access instead of leaving them in the cage for extended periods of time.

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Education - The difference between poverty & prosperity


For the past few years my education efforts in the field of parrot behaviour have been almost solely focused on writing for Australian Birdkeeper Magazine and delivering workshops for both Parrot Behaviour & Enrichment Consultations and my new workshop co-initiative `Behaviourtects’ with my good buddy Nicholas Bishop. My client consultation work has become increasingly more difficult to maintain with an ever increasing set of competing priorities. What I am really passionate about are my workshops. These are incredibly rewarding experiences and the opportunity to teach to a group of passionate parrot people quenches my thirst for educating others. 

Research tells us what should be obvious - education is the number one influence on poverty or prosperity in the human condition. Likewise, it is our education levels as parrot owners that make the difference between our parrots living impoverished or prosperous lives whilst in our care. Parrot owners that actively engage in a life-long approach to continuing education of themselves are undoubtedly better equipped to offer their birds the enriched captive life they deserve. Even though I have been a parrot keeper for nearly 20 years and taught parrot owners for more than ten of those through my writing and workshops I consider myself a professional learner first, teacher second. I still attend workshop opportunities as a student and keenly listen to the anecdotes of others to embellish my own experience set with theirs. 

These days, most people look to the Internet as their primary learning environment. If you’re lucky you will find the good stuff early in your search. There’s plenty of gold out there if you start with the links below. If not, welcome to a whole world of poverty stricken thinking, most of which rears its ugly head in those great information shantytowns – the parrot discussion forum or the Facebook parrot whatever group. 

My advice - If you really want to deepen your education then there is no substitute for an immersion experience via workshops, conferences or conventions. If you can’t make a workshop then be sure to check the following sources to ensure your understanding of the behaviour and enrichment needs of your birds is going to prosper and not languish in poverty…

Poverty or Prosperity? Education makes the difference

Quick Update...

The past 5 years have been an amazing time of change with the addition of three children and an ever-increasing set of work responsibilities. I have recently decided to remove my old website completely and now my website address will redirect to this blog site until I develop a replacement site. That will hopefully happen this year but until then, parrot enthusiasts can keep in touch via my various blog ramblings at this site.  To keep things happening my plan is to upload a new blog post each fortnight (twice a month), something that I haven’t been able to allocate the time to do successfully over the past year but will endeavour to do so now. Check in every second weekend and hopefully there will be something new to read or an interesting link to share.

My main distraction over the past few years has been my focus on being `present’ with my family. I take that responsibility as being my most important in life and it certainly gets prioritized over my education work for bird owners. The upside for me is that my twin boys are starting to `help out’ with the bird round. Archie in particular really likes following me around and loves to be given little jobs to do – his favourite being to place the afternoon fruit chunk in each of the lory aviaries. 

Parrots and children can be a volatile mix. Whilst I don’t consider most parrot species to be suitable companion animals for kids, perhaps the more appropriate reality is that most kids aren’t really suitable carers for parrots (actually – most adults are probably worse but that’s for another time). There are a few exceptions but my experience definitely suggests that aside from the time period when a parrot is very young and very confiding, most become increasingly less tolerant of the variability in behaviour of small children. Of all of the parrots in my collection, most display aggression towards my three kids as they wander around the aviaries and some; the Amazons and Macaws in particular, are simply dangerous. 

My goal is for my children to grow up appreciating wildlife so I want them to have the most positive experience possible and to learn the importance of respecting all forms of life. To ensure that those experiences build confidence, engagement and wonder it’s definitely a `hands off’ situation while the kids are young. As they learn about how animals communicate with us through their body language they will hopefully develop the sorts of decision-making skills that ultimately make the critical difference between success and failure in their animal encounters. What an awesome responsibility it is to guide them through that learning journey!

Archie on the afternoon rounds serving up a fruit chunk for the Black Lories - his favourites.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Consult Diary…


Due to prioritising family time these days I decided to take a break from doing consultation work, other than the occasional phone consult. Every now and then someone on the Sunshine Coast will contact me and given that it’s local I sometimes make exceptions depending on my schedule. I had recently had a phone consult with a local client and given the nature of the problems faced there was a need to follow-up with an in-home visit. I’m glad I did as it certainly made a significant difference on a number of levels. I’m not going to get into specific details as I take the confidentiality of working with my clients seriously. What I can do in this forum however is to share some of the general learning experiences, philosophies and approaches used in some of my consult sessions so that reader’s can hopefully benefit as well. 

In the case of my most recent consult there was plenty of food for thought that we can all find value in reflecting on. I’m going to elaborate on three of these over the next three posts (including this one). Let’s start off with…

Want behaviour change? – Get that environment right

When you do in-home consultation work you get used to being prepared for anything. I’ve pretty much seen it all – the very good and the not so very good. One thing you need to be prepared to do is to sometimes throw out Plan A (your original pre-consult goal set) and switch to Plan B. Plan B rarely actually `exists’ – the other (and perhaps more appropriate) term for it is `Wing it and work with whatever is in front you in most need of changing’. What starts off as - `Yeah – let’s see if we can get together and work on that step up behaviour!’ quickly gets shelved in favour of - `Umm – let’s see if we can do a renovation rescue on this here cage so the little fella doesn’t have to perform a Cirque de Soleil routine just to get anywhere near your hand’. In almost every in-home consultation I have done over more than 10 years of going into people’s homes to help them with their parrots I can’t recall a single one that didn’t start off with some necessary improvised goal setting re-directed towards environmental change. In my experience, the most potent precursor to the establishment of behavioural issues with parrots that are incompatible with harmony in the home lies firmly and squarely in poor environmental arrangement. The absolute bottom line for achieving any behaviour change goal is that the starting point for success is in environmental change. 

So…What’s often wrong with these environments? It varies – anything from completely inappropriate housing, improper perching, inadequate enrichment, excessive exposure to aversive stimuli, poor diet management, improper handling – the whole suite. Therein lies the dilemma if you are working with a client in an environment where just about none of the right boxes are ticked.  Where do you start? This is where the skill of consulting is much greater than just theoretical understanding. Being able to determine what your client actually has the capacity to achieve both financially and motivationally is critical. There is no greater waste of time than instructing a client from an authoritative stance and setting up what amounts to a list of demands for what you might know are `ideal’ but in reality may never be achieved by the owner. The concept of `approximations’ is just as relevant for goal setting with clients as it is with their birds – a very, very important idea to keep in mind as a consultant.

It can be a real challenge to think on the spot when consulting and come up with contingencies for situations that are outside of the scope of what you were mentally prepared for. Be prepared to set aside the more explicit expectations of the client which, in the client’s mind, most commonly starts with `I want the bird to do this…’ and redirect their thinking to where the foundations of behaviour change really need to be addressed first – which should see a mindset shift towards… `To get the bird to do this… we first need to have an environment that looks like this…’ That approach will ultimately make the difference between success and failure whilst (perhaps most critically) elevate the level of `ownership’ of the problems and the solutions to the client – not the consultant (I’ll reveal more on that in the future). Overcoming challenges in confronting situations is exceptionally rewarding – particularly knowing that you probably achieved more in your time with the client by taking a step back to go two forward. 

So, next up over the next two posts I want to go into some detail on the following little reflections… 


  1. Buyer Beware – Hand raised is all in the interpretation of the term
  2. Trust Account Bankruptcy – Happens long before you’ve called in the receivers

I’ll post each of these over the coming weeks so keep checking back in ☺ 

What's going to be more important during a consult session for this guy - A `Bird in the hand' or an `Environmental Makeover'? Sometimes the most important focus for achieving goals with clients requires a one step back approach to get those all important two steps forward. The `step back' is where consideration of the environment and the necessary antecedent arrangement to set the bird up for success is achieved.

More Food Prep Tips…


Like just about everyone else in these crazy times we live in, I lead a typically busy life and am therefore constantly looking for ways to minimise time spent on the `work’ aspects of parrot ownership whilst maximising time spent on the `play’. Food preparation has always been a bit of both work and play for me. I actually really enjoy thinking about the three pillars of effective diet management (Composition, Presentation and Timing of Delivery) and get a bit of a kick out of the aesthetics of it all when I put together a veritable smorgasbord of culinary curiosities for my flock. I have to admit though – getting the time to do that in-between my intense career demands, family needs and extra-curricular pursuits can be a challenge. It’s especially time consuming when you have more than one or two companion birds. Our flock fluctuates between 12 and 15 birds depending on what’s happening here so preparing food and feeding out can definitely become time intensive. 

I had always shied away from pre-preparing fresh food in advance and utilising cold storage until I watched Pam Clark and Kris Porter’s excellent DVD `Feeding Our Parrots Well’ (see review – http://parrotconsultations.blogspot.com.au/2010/02/feeding-our-parrots-well-new-dvd.html). Usually the problem you get is that fresh food doesn’t last well when sliced and diced to the small size I prefer but Pam’s technique layers the foods in such a way that it maximises freshness for the few days it gets stored. I took that onboard and what I do is stack the airlock Tupperware containers such that the final layer is frozen peas and corn. This tends to create a blanket layer that is already frozen/chilled on top of the rest of the fruit and vegetable mix and seems to aid significantly in keeping the rest of the contents fresh for up to 3 days in the fridge. In a good airlock container you get a nice `esky’ effect. It takes me only a fraction longer to prepare 3 days worth of fruit and vegetable mix at a time. I then allocate 1 portion of that for that mornings feed and store the rest for the following two days. I’ve gone from doing fresh food prep every night or morning to every third day. Less time on `work’ – more time for `play’.

Using good quality, airtight containers, layering fresh food and placing frozen peas and corn mix as the top layer significantly helps to keep cold stored diets fresh for up to 3 days.